From November 2013 to February 2014, Kiev was burning with revolution. I remember seeing it take place on the news. People fighting, buildings on fire, police beating and then the snipers killing. Over 100 people were killed in the Euromaidan revolution and many more were injured. All of Ukraine joined in, but Kiev was ground zero: the front line. I wanted to see how Ukraine had changed within those four years, and if the outcome was a better, less corrupt society. Unfortunately things still seem despondent. The country is currently in the midst of a hybrid-war with Russia in the Eastern region of Donbas, resulting in over a million displaced citizens. Tens of thousands have been killed, and pretty much everyone all over has been affected in one way or another. It's a forgotten war, put on the back-shelf alongside all the others. Like every conflict, it's incredibly difficult to understand the true context and emotions as an outsider. This is after all, a region which was united with it's aggressor for 72 years.
On my trip, I attempted to understand the situation a little better. However, only being able to speak English put me at a disadvantage to fully understanding the pro-Russian agenda, and most of the people who speak English favour the pro-Europeans. I started off in Kiev, talking to activists, soldiers and revolutionaries to get their opinion on Ukraine's current state. Despite the economic downfall, the war and the countries divide, most young people I spoke to were incredibly optimistic. They were aware that the revolution hadn't succeeded in disposing of a corrupt leader, but felt that people's mentality had changed for the better. Ukrainians were becoming more active in social and political work. Thousands of new NGO's have popped up, and an interest in politics began to simmer into the youth. Many feel that the revolution is in fact still going on, and are continually fighting for their goal of integrating 'European Values' into society. Outside of Kiev, however, others weren't as optimistic. Some were anti the revolution entirely, feeling that the war and poor economic state were direct results from it. Others still maintain a Soviet identity, and believed the following de-communisation reforms to be a personal attack. These beliefs have split the country in half, and it's hard not to describe the situation as being pro-European/ pro-Ukrainian vs pro-Russian. Travelling through the country, you see this concept of Ukrainian and European identity being pushed forwards. In Kiev, all marks of the revolution have been cleaned up, although posters of those killed have been plastered onto the Maidan monument. Covering the remnants of a burnt out building hangs a banner proclaiming "Freedom is our Religion" in English, with a less prominent Ukrainian translation on the side. Driving into the capital, you are greeted with a large Eurovision sign and in the centre lies touristic attractions such as dressed up Minions and a "I LOVE KIEV" sign. It has all the hallmarks of a European city trying to bring in tourism. All over the country, even in the South-East city of Kherson, where Russian support is more present, you see the national colours painted on anything. From bridges to benches, blue and yellow subtly invades your vision. I believe this is down to the country wanting to reinstate it's own identity, and separate themselves from their Russian neighbours. Ukraine doesn't have as strong a historical identity as other post-Soviet countries like Lithuania, Poland or Georgia. Instead it's been under control of various empires throughout much of it's existence. At one point being part of Austro-Hungary, the Kingdom of Poland and obviously the Russian empire. It's only been truly independent for a length of time since the collapse of the Soviet Union, and now many are pushing for a strong, Ukrainian identity, away from Russia and it's Soviet past. Ukraine is full of great beauty and the countryside changes vastly throughout the different regions. As Europe's largest country, (excluding Russia) you have everything from mountains to beaches and even a desert. From the buzzing Kiev, I travelled down to Kherson, where the collapse of the Soviet Union has left a mark on the city. Much more neglected than Kiev, many of the buildings are in disarray, stuck in a communist time capsule. It still has some beautiful streets, and the countryside surrounding it is reminiscent of England's West Country, but the atmosphere of the city is stagnant, almost lost. South of the city are a number of islands where life is slow and peaceful. There's no road, so travel has to be done by motorbike or tractor. The residents spend a lot of time fishing, and gardens are filled with vegetables and fruits. To an outsider, it's an idyllic way of living. However, the winter must be tough, and it's no wonder that many of the residents move back to their apartments in the city. The final city on my trip was Odessa. Built by French and Italian architects in the 19th century, Odessa is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities in Ukraine. As any in-depth film fan knows, it is home to the Potemkin stairs, famous for the pram scene in 'Battleship Potemkin'. It's much more guided towards tourists, thanks to its sandy beaches and large hotels. As usual, the outskirts are much more Soviet, with high rises everywhere. But on a nearby suburban beach, I found some interesting life. Fishermen spend their days casting, and a community has built illegal houses actually on the beach itself. Life changes vastly over this fascinating country, and at times it's hard to imagine a conflict is taking place only a few hours away. My series of photographs hopes to show the other side of a country currently at war, and the beginnings of a change that will alter is political and cultural course: the transition from Soviet to capitalist.
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